A Family Affair
Discussing the “rules of the house” with all family members should be done prior to bringing home the puppy. Make sure that everyone is consistent with the training and procedures. If the rules change daily or each family member has a different set of rules, the dogs ability to do what is “right” will become almost impossible.
- Determine where will the puppy will sleep
- Decide who will feed the puppy, when and where the puppy will be fed
- Identify where the puppy’s potty spot will be
- Establish where the puppy will stay during the day
- Determine the “off limits” area of the house for the puppy
- Select who will provide the formal training
- Have a clear understanding on how to correct the puppy
- Work with the children NOW about proper handling and playing with a puppy
- Don’t allow children to play inside the crate – this is the puppy's safe place
- Get to know what foods are toxic to dogs (see links)
- Start getting in the habit of picking up clothes, shoes, toys or valuable items and put away.
We ask that every family adopting a puppy from SCL read two very informative books while waiting for their puppy to come home. They will make a huge difference in the adjustment of a puppy into your home and family. Please read the following books:
Idiots guides to puppy triaining
"The Dog Listener" by Jan Fennell
"How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves" by Sophia Yin, DVM
You must complete your education about puppy education before you get your puppy. All behavior, temperament, and training problems are so easily preventable, if you know how.
When you choose a new puppy, you need to meet six developmental deadlines before your puppy is just five months old. If your puppy fails to meet any of these deadlines, he will never achieve his full potential and will be playing ‘behavioral catch-up’ for the rest of his life.
James & Kenneth Publishers believes so strongly, that preventing the development of extremely common and utterly predictable puppy problems is the only way to prevent the unnecessary euthanasia of millions of
unwanted shelter dogs.
In our attempt to educate prospective puppy owners before they get their puppies, we have convinced
Dr. Ian Dunbar to allow us to offer his book BEFORE You Get Your Puppy for free.
BEFORE You Get Your Puppy covers the first three developmental deadlines covering the period of puppy selection until your puppy's first week at home.
- If you do not know how to assess your prospective puppy's behavioral development, your puppy
could well be severely developmentally retarded before you take him home to live with you
(by eight weeks of age).
- An eight-week-old puppy should be well-socialized to people (especially children, men, and strangers) and thoroughly accustomed to living in a home environment, i.e., he must have been raised indoors and
not in a kennel.
- Additionally, your prospective puppy should have been house trained and chew toy-trained, and at the very least, taught to come, sit, lie down, and roll over on request.
If you do not know how to raise and train a puppy, he will most certainly develop a number of behavior, temperament, and training problems. Many owners begin to notice their puppy's house soiling and chewing mistakes by the time he is four to five months old, whereupon the pup is characteristically relegated outdoors. Natural inquisitiveness prompts the lonely pup to dig, bark, and escape in his quest for some form of occupational therapy to pass the time of day in solitary confinement. Once the neighbors complain about the dog's incessant barking and periodic escapes, the dog is often further confined to a garage or basement. Usually though, this is only a temporary measure until the dog is surrendered to a local animal shelter to play the lotto of life. Fewer than 25 percent of surrendered dogs are adopted, of which about half are returned as soon as the new owners discover their adopted adolescent's annoying problems.
Without a doubt, behavior, temperament, and training problems
are the most prevalent terminal illnesses for pet dogs.
Chewys is a GREAT place to order dog supplies from and dog food...delivered to your door within 48 hours tax free and shipped free if over $49
Dog food advisor continually has updated list of pet food recalls and rates dog food brands.
Adding Fresh Foods to a Commercial Diet:
It is a great idea to add some fresh foods to a commercial diet, to improve the quality of nutrition that your dog receives. As long as you feed at least half kibble, you don't need to worry too much about balancing the foods you add. It is generally better to add protein sources rather than carbohydrates (grains and vegetables), since commercial diets are already usually high in carbs and dogs have no nutritional need for them. Animal source proteins, including eggs, meat, organs and dairy are the best foods to add. Here is some more information on foods you can add to a commercial diet:
- Eggs: preferably raw, can also be lightly scrambled or hard boiled. Whole eggs are fine, as the yolks contain plenty of biotin to make up for what the whites destroy. One of the healthiest and easiest to add foods.
- Muscle Meat (including Heart): any kind of meat, either ground or chunks (small enough to avoid choking), is fine. Raw is best, but can be lightly cooked (if boneless). If you are not including bones, add 1/2 tsp. ground eggshell (you can grind it in a coffee grinder) to a pound of meat to give the proper calcium/phosphorus ratio. Adding calcium is not necessary if the added meat is only a small portion of the diet.
- Liver or other Organ Meat: feed small amounts of liver at a time, as it is rich and can lead to diarrhea, but it is very dense nutritionally and good to feed. Kidney is similar, but not quite as rich. Most other organ meats, like hearts and gizzards, are nutritionally more like muscle meats.
- Fish: Sardines (packed in water, not oil), Jack Mackerel or Canned Salmon: Perfect ratio of meat to bones, plus full of omega-3 essential fatty acids. Never feed raw salmon or trout from the Pacific Northwest (California to Alaska), as it may contain a parasite that can be fatal to dogs. I don't recommend feeding tuna, as it is more likely to be contaminated with mercury, and does not include bones.
- Yogurt: plain, preferably organic, whole milk (rather than low- or non-fat) is fine unless your dog needs to lose weight.
- Cottage Cheese or Ricotta Cheese: low-fat is best.
- Garlic: may help repel fleas (although this is anecdotal) and has other health benefits as well. Garlic can be toxic in very large quantities. Give no more than 1/2 to 1 raw, crushed clove per 20 pounds of body weight.
- Recreational bones can help keep the teeth clean, and avoid gum diseases. I like to give large marrow bones Knuckle bones are also good. The marrow is very rich and may cause diarrhea (you can scoop some of it out with a spoon before feeding to help). Bones get harder as they dry out, so to avoid problems with broken teeth, it's better to take the bones away after a reasonable amount of time (anything from a few hours to a day or two).
- Canned Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix) -- great for digestion, helps both diarrhea and constipation. Use in small amounts, as too much can also cause diarrhea.
- Veggies: preferably pureed raw or can be steamed (whole raw veggies, such as broccoli or carrot sticks, are not harmful but can't be digested by dogs). Good veggies include carrots, celery, all kinds of greens (kale, collard greens, mustard greens, bok choy, cabbage, spinach, chard, parsley, cilantro, etc.), lettuce (anything but iceberg, which is not very nutritious), broccoli, brussel sprouts, zucchini, asparagus, turnips, parsnips, etc. Do NOT feed onions. Warning: If your animal is having any symptoms of arthritis, inflammation, respiratory problems or any other conditions that involve swelling or mucous, stay away from the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant).
- Fruit: banana, papaya, apple, pear, avocado, etc.
Name your puppy: Link below is fun and unsual enjoy!
More dog name sites click here.