"Preparing for Puppy"...
Please view the video below as you begin your new "Journey" with your new puppy.
"The best way to get a puppy is to beg for a baby brother — and they'll settle for a puppy every time." Winston Pendleton
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Step by step guide for training your puppy the first few weeks: Excellent article with pictures explaining what to do....Do not set your alarm to wake your pup in the middle of the night...to go potty, let them wake you...
Your Puppy's First Days Home- Tips on getting your family and your new puppy all on the same page....:) Remember key words, all using the same ones. Name, Come, Sit, Wait, Off, Go Potty, Down, etc etc..
Infants, Children and Your new Puppy/Dog- Helpful tips on how not to let your new furry pet rule your children and the house.
Puppy Socialization- Very important..you can take your new puppy to NON doggie places. ie carpool, strip malls (walking outside), plant stores, some Lowes or home depot stores will allow them inside...Give treats to strangers to give to your young dog..more tips within the link.
More on Puppy Socialization and early training.
Crate Training- Never a punishment always sometime wonderful. I use a bully stick as insentive they only get it when in their crate...You can also leave the door open and put a couple of treats in there for them to find periodically, feeding in the crate also helps...more tips in the link.
Puppy Biting and Mouthing- One big common problem...help inside link..
Teaching a Puppy to Settle Down- Kids and husbands can wire up and so called calm puppy...here is a link with some tips on how to settle things down.
Reward Based Training- Techniques for training your puppy/dog in any situation using positive reinforcement.....
Poisonous Plants/Parts List
Pet Emergency Kit Necessities - Helpful things to have on hand in case of an emergency...
First Aide 101 Good link general first aid.
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| | Fun and interactive game that helps teach a child how to behave around a dog in certain situations. Children earn "bite marks" if they answer incorrectly and put themselves in danger, or they earn "safety stars" if they answer correctly. When they eventually make it through the game without any bite marks, they are awarded a "Safety Factor Challenge Certificate" that you can print out. Parents with children, please have your child visit this site.
GAMES FOR KIDS.....from goldendoodles.com web site click here.
Click on book for information on how to order it. Good resourse for families with children
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A Family Affair
Discussing the “rules of the house” with all family members should be done prior to bringing home the puppy. Make sure that everyone is consistent with the training and procedures. If the rules change daily or each family member has a different set of rules, the dogs ability to do what is “right” will become almost impossible.
- Determine where will the puppy will sleep
- Decide who will feed the puppy, when and where the puppy will be fed
- Identify where the puppy’s potty spot will be
- Establish where the puppy will stay during the day
- Determine the “off limits” area of the house for the puppy
- Select who will provide the formal training
- Have a clear understanding on how to correct the puppy
- Work with the children NOW about proper handling and playing with a puppy
- Don’t allow children to play inside the crate – this is the puppy's safe place
- Get to know what foods are toxic to dogs (see links)
- Start getting in the habit of picking up clothes, shoes, toys or valuable items and put away.
We ask that every family adopting a puppy from SCL read two very informative books while waiting for their puppy to come home. They will make a huge difference in the adjustment of a puppy into your home and family. Please read the following books:
"The Dog Listener" by Jan Fennell
"How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves" by Sophia Yin, DVM
You must complete your education about puppy education before you get your puppy. All behavior, temperament, and training problems are so easily preventable, if you know how.
When you choose a new puppy, you need to meet six developmental deadlines before your puppy is just five months old. If your puppy fails to meet any of these deadlines, he will never achieve his full potential and will be playing ‘behavioral catch-up’ for the rest of his life.
James & Kenneth Publishers believes so strongly, that preventing the development of extremely common and utterly predictable puppy problems is the only way to prevent the unnecessary euthanasia of millions of
unwanted shelter dogs.
In our attempt to educate prospective puppy owners before they get their puppies, we have convinced
Dr. Ian Dunbar to allow us to offer his book BEFORE You Get Your Puppy for free.
BEFORE You Get Your Puppy covers the first three developmental deadlines covering the period of puppy selection until your puppy's first week at home.
- If you do not know how to assess your prospective puppy's behavioral development, your puppy
could well be severely developmentally retarded before you take him home to live with you
(by eight weeks of age).
- An eight-week-old puppy should be well-socialized to people (especially children, men, and strangers) and thoroughly accustomed to living in a home environment, i.e., he must have been raised indoors and
not in a kennel.
- Additionally, your prospective puppy should have been housetrained and chewtoy-trained, and at the very least, taught to come, sit, lie down, and roll over on request.
If you do not know how to raise and train a puppy, he will most certainly develop a number of behavior, temperament, and training problems. Many owners begin to notice their puppy's housesoiling and chewing mistakes by the time he is four to five months old, whereupon the pup is characteristically relegated outdoors. Natural inquisitiveness prompts the lonely pup to dig, bark, and escape in his quest for some form of occupational therapy to pass the time of day in solitary confinement. Once the neighbors complain about the dog's incessant barking and periodic escapes, the dog is often further confined to a garage or basement. Usually though, this is only a temporary measure until the dog is surrendered to a local animal shelter to play the lotto of life. Fewer than 25 percent of surrendered dogs are adopted, of which about half are returned as soon as the new owners discover their adopted adolescent's annoying problems.
Without a doubt, behavior, temperament, and training problems
are the most prevalent terminal illnesses for pet dogs.
What to feed:
I feed to all of my dogs.
Wellness, Timberwolf, California natural and Taste of the Wild is my new favorite but all are good dry commecial products. Wellness makes an excellent canned product that is 95% meat. Taste of the Wild ( click link to learn more about this food)
The links below are to a continually updated list of pet food recalls.
Adding Fresh Foods to a Commercial Diet:
It is a great idea to add some fresh foods to a commercial diet, to improve the quality of nutrition that your dog receives. As long as you feed at least half kibble, you don't need to worry too much about balancing the foods you add. It is generally better to add protein sources rather than carbohydrates (grains and vegetables), since commercial diets are already usually high in carbs and dogs have no nutritional need for them. Animal source proteins, including eggs, meat, organs and dairy are the best foods to add. Here is some more information on foods you can add to a commercial diet:
- Eggs: preferably raw, can also be lightly scrambled or hard boiled. Whole eggs are fine, as the yolks contain plenty of biotin to make up for what the whites destroy. One of the healthiest and easiest to add foods.
- Muscle Meat (including Heart): any kind of meat, either ground or chunks (small enough to avoid choking), is fine. Raw is best, but can be lightly cooked (if boneless). If you are not including bones, add 1/2 tsp. ground eggshell (you can grind it in a coffee grinder) to a pound of meat to give the proper calcium/phosphorus ratio. Adding calcium is not necessary if the added meat is only a small portion of the diet.
- Liver or other Organ Meat: feed small amounts of liver at a time, as it is rich and can lead to diarrhea, but it is very dense nutritionally and good to feed. Kidney is similar, but not quite as rich. Most other organ meats, like hearts and gizzards, are nutritionally more like muscle meats.
- Fish: Sardines (packed in water, not oil), Jack Mackerel or Canned Salmon: Perfect ratio of meat to bones, plus full of omega-3 essential fatty acids. Never feed raw salmon or trout from the Pacific Northwest (California to Alaska), as it may contain a parasite that can be fatal to dogs. I don't recommend feeding tuna, as it is more likely to be contaminated with mercury, and does not include bones.
- Yogurt: plain, preferably organic, whole milk (rather than low- or non-fat) is fine unless your dog needs to lose weight.
- Cottage Cheese or Ricotta Cheese: low-fat is best.
- Garlic: may help repel fleas (although this is anecdotal) and has other health benefits as well. Garlic can be toxic in very large quantities. Give no more than 1/2 to 1 raw, crushed clove per 20 pounds of body weight.
- Recreational bones can help keep the teeth clean, and avoid gum diseases. I like to give large marrow bones Knuckle bones are also good. The marrow is very rich and may cause diarrhea (you can scoop some of it out with a spoon before feeding to help). Bones get harder as they dry out, so to avoid problems with broken teeth, it's better to take the bones away after a reasonable amount of time (anything from a few hours to a day or two).
- Canned Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix) -- great for digestion, helps both diarrhea and constipation. Use in small amounts, as too much can also cause diarrhea.
- Veggies: preferably pureed raw or can be steamed (whole raw veggies, such as broccoli or carrot sticks, are not harmful but can't be digested by dogs). Good veggies include carrots, celery, all kinds of greens (kale, collard greens, mustard greens, bok choy, cabbage, spinach, chard, parsley, cilantro, etc.), lettuce (anything but iceberg, which is not very nutritious), broccoli, brussel sprouts, zucchini, asparagus, turnips, parsnips, etc. Do NOT feed onions. Warning: If your animal is having any symptoms of arthritis, inflammation, respiratory problems or any other conditions that involve swelling or mucous, stay away from the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant).
- Fruit: banana, papaya, apple, pear, avocado, etc.
Name your puppy: Link below is fun and unsual enjoy!
More dog name sites click here.
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Very important safety information - a touching story ALL dog owners can learn from
As with small children (toddler), you will want to puppy proof your house. Part of it is to keep the puppy safe, and the rest is to keep your stuff safe from the puppy. Puppies chew things. Everything below four feet is fair game. Expect it and prepare for it. One of the best solutions is to offer a wide variety of puppy safe chew products all over each accessible floor in the house. If the pup is going to chew, you might as well control what he is chewing.
Get a laundry hamper for toys with or without a lid. We use one here, I just wish mine would put their toys BACK after taking them out............geech!
Favorite thing to chew: UNDERWARE.....they will chew it up and swallow if within reach....tissues and toilet paper a close second.........yummy!
Start getting in the habit of picking up clothes, shoes, toys or valuable items and put them away!!!!!!!!
Cat litter boxes: Dogs love what cats deposit in there! Relocate box into an area the puppy can't go. Or get one dogs can't get into........
Spray furniture legs, upostery, electrical cords, rug tassels, etc with a chew stop product or bitter apple. MOST puppies will stop if it tastes nasty and you won't be the one constantly correcting this behavior.
Use child proof locks to keep substances like pesticides, meds, cleaning products, plants, etc locked up in cabinets and away from your pup.
When pups are very young, even rawhide strips can be dangerous, never give these to your puppy unsupervised, better yet not at all.....Cow hoofs are a great substitute.
FENCING: If you have one check it for holes or potential "escape" routes. If not consider getting one in the near future. Either an electrical one or a solid one will be needed by the time the puppy is 3-4 months old.
Be aware that some foods and plants are toxic to dogs.
Good Hint: Most yards in the United States have yew bushes, they are as common as maple trees. They are toxic! Many dogs will not mouth them when older because they taste awful (which is why we rarely hear about them being toxic), but to a puppy the desire to play is much greater and can ingest. Either remove or mark the plants with a red marking tape to remind you to keep the pup away from them.
Avoid heat stroke and don't leave pups or dogs locked in cars.
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After your puppy comes home
Learn about vacination protocols here:
Health Risks of Parvo
You should NOT allow your puppy to be out in public places until after the Parvo vaccinations have been completed, 12-16 weeks. I know it's tempting to show off the new pup but it is very dangerous as well.......
The surest way to avoid parvo infection in your dog is to adhere to the recommended vaccination schedule which begins when puppies are 8 weeks of age. Puppies should not be allowed to socialize with other dogs or frequent areas where other dogs have been until 2 weeks after they have had their last vaccination. Immunization for parvo is usually included in your dog's distemper vaccine. This shot gives protection against several potentially fatal canine diseases all at the same time. Discus a proper vacination schedual with your vet for your area. Some regions in the country are more prevelent for certain deseases and may require additional vacinations.